Empty tourism?

I have a couple of friends; OK, I have more than that, but for the sake of this entry, I am only mentioning two.

One friend is very interested in karate and has been studying for several years. The other is an old vet and is currently living on Okinawa with his wife (a fellow karateka). One friend is quite interested in doing a tour to Okinawa. The other just happens to help people arrange their local accommodations and visits in Okinawa. I have put one in touch with the other as a means of allowing them to see if there is an interest in helping each other out, eg one will train and one will make some money.

Despite having been involved in Okinawan karate for the past few decades, it was only a little over 10 years ago that I made my first pilgrimage to the island. Some 20 years ago, I likened it to visiting Mecca - it was a pilgrimage that all serious karateka needed to make at least once in their life. My, how my own thought changed over time. I say over time because I now see the value of not only taking advantage of opportunities to train with visiting Okinawan instructors, but of visiting the island as often as possible. There are so many reasons why people should take advantage of the opportunities that travelling to the island affords. Sadly, though, there are many who travel simply to `take advantage.`

While I have nothing but respect for my friend who helps people with accommodations, etc on Okinawa, I do have somewhat of a challenge with the concept. There are pros and cons to the endeavour. Here`s how I see it.

I liken the notion of karate tourism to the all-inclusive trip to places such as Mexico or Cuba. Sure, you go there, you sample the food, you explore the environment, you buy the trinkets. But, it will not make you Hispanic. In a similar vein, there is no way that a single visit will make you an Okinawan karateka, either. It`s not enough to simply go there, do that and get the t-shirt (or the gi, which, if you do go anyways is an experience unto itself). The fine folks at CFA have been on the kick of seminars for a long time. This is part of the progression from videos and DVDs to offering the real thing. But, what you get, again, is akin to what you get at an all-inclusive: a gorge yourself smorg. Train with this person and that person, learn this and that, go away with smidgens of information that you may or may not find useful.

Yet, from poking about, I find that there are likely (generally) three types of people who do these sorts of tours

One is the sampler. The sampler will come, learn things and then leave - likely not ever applying what they have learned into their own training for one reason or another. For them it was an interesting experience, but what was there doesn't fit in their style/ would not be acceptable to their association/ doesn't fit with their ideology. Sort of like going to Mexico, picking up some Pidgin Spanish and then going home and sprechen or parler-ing their home language to beat the band. So, OK, you went, had the authentic experience and did nothing with it. A fool and his money...

The second is the collector. The collector may spend a bit more time, sink in to the program a bit. He'll hobnob with the different folk on the island, will feign respect and interest, but what they are looking for is trophy, a prize. Sort of like the gringo that wants to find an 'autentico" physical representation of the visit to Cuba, he will only be satiated if he finds a legendary cigar maker or a rare bottle of rum. The karate collector is seeking similar validation, but theirs would come in the form of a belt/ rank. Ironically, unlike the cigar or the rum, every time someone "buys" a belt, the product becomes a little less "authentic." This is a significant danger that all players must come to realize. Sadly, like the rum-maker or the cigar manufacturer, it is quite often a simple commercial transaction. Make a product, sell a product...

The third type of visitor is the one who has my utmost respect. Theirs is not a solo visit. They have become so enamored with the place and the arts that they will continue to visit on a regular basis. They've bought into what goes on their and fallen in love with what they have learned, seen and felt. Maybe they cannot go every year, but their connection is such that they will savour every moment they can while there and they spend almost every moment from the time they leave planning their next trip. They see value to what they are doing there, have respect for the art(s) they learn and the people they are learning it from (not saying that they others do not, but go back to Okinawa after one of the 'seminars' and see if one of the masters personally remembers you). They have made the connection and this now becomes a way of life for them.

As this becomes more commonplace, tourism will become more important for Okinawans. It is already an important industry for the mainland Japanese tourist who views Okinawa in much the same way folks may view Mallorca, Turkey or the Dominican Republic. The same holds true for visitors from the neighbouring Asian communities that wind up landing in Naha. But, the opportunity to make karate a larger and broader tourist attraction is there and it can be a slippery slope. For the folks at the magazine, they control damn near everything to ensure there is little room for lost face between them and the instructors. But still, for them and their teaching cadre, there is financial gain. The more you control things, the more you can ensure that the margin for someone stepping on their dick is limited if not removed altogether. The financial relationship is maintained and the economic prosperity grows.

My friend is in a bit more of a sticky predicament; if they make an introduction and the person turns out to be an asshole, then it is his face that is on the line. It's a small island and word gets around. So far, he has been quite lucky. Yet, for as much as that luck may run out one day, I hope for his sake it does not.

For those thinking of going to Okinawa, consider what I say above. If you are not interested in making a serious commitment to the Okinawan arts before and after you leave, it is perhaps best for all involved that you stay away. Perhaps an nice all-inclusive may be a better (and cheaper) vacation investment for you?

I hear Costa Rica is nice this time of year...

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